Frequently Asked FAQquestions
Hairballs
Q: My cat gets hairballs a lot. How can I fix this problem?
A: Since cats spend so much time licking and cleaning themselves, they swallow a lot of hair. Hairballs, or "fur balls" are quantities of hair that accumulate in the cat's stomach or small intestine. Normally, most of the hair that is swallowed is expelled through the cat's digestive system in her stool. Problems occur when hair that doesn't get excreted gathers in the cat's stomach or intestine and forms a dense ball or mat which cannot be passed. The ball is then vomited.
The signs of hairballs in cats, then, are related to the digestive system and include vomiting, loss of appetite or constipation. Hairballs are actually one of the most common reasons that cats vomit. The "hacking" you may notice when your cat is bringing up a hairball may be gagging or retching, as the cat tries to vomit the hairball. Hairballs do not cause respiratory symptoms.
While it is normal for a cat to have them occasionally, large numbers of hairballs are dangerous. Hairballs can block the intestinal tract, making it impossible for the cat to either vomit or eliminate. Twenty-five percent of all impactions (when something is "stuck" in the digestive tract) diagnosed by veterinarians are due to hairballs. There have been cases where hairballs the size of baseballs were removed from the stomachs of cats.
Signs of a major hairball problem and possible impaction are retching, inability to defecate, diarrhoea, loss of appetite or a swollen abdomen. See your veterinarian immediately if you suspect your cat is impacted.
Products on the market that can help cats with a hairball problem are usually composed of non-digestible oil-type ingredients and are flavoured so a cat will accept them readily. They work by lubricating the cat's digestive tract to help the hair pass more easily. If this is done routinely, large mats or balls never form. Make sure to follow manufacturer's recommendations for use.
We do not suggest you use homemade products containing butter or oils, because they can bring about other digestive problems or be absorbed by the cat's system before they have a chance to work.
A high-fibre diet or fibre supplement may also help with a chronic hairball problem. The fibre can help move the excess hair through the cat's digestive system and into the litter pan. Whichever product you choose, use it on a regular basis, according to the manufacturer's recommendations, to prevent reoccurrence.
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Biting and Scratching
Q: I just got a new kitten and whenever we play he enjoys biting me rather than his toys. I know it's wrong for a kitten to bite you during play because then he thinks its right, but how can I make him stop? Also, sometimes he lays on the ground and grabs my feet and scratches with his rear claws.
A: It is rare that cats bite or scratch because they are vicious animals or because they are downright mean. Cats as a species are predators by nature and the games they sometimes play are an extension of this trait. Cats love to exhibit their predatory nature by stalking and pouncing on human feet or hands and by reacting to this play in the wrong way, we unintentionally reinforce the very behaviour we choose to eliminate. Some other reasons a cat will bite are because he feels frightened, angry, hurt or is feeling threatened. You will need to redirect your pet's behaviour by proper correction and reward. You should never allow your cat to scratch or bite skin on anyone for this could be sending a confusing message.
Some kittens and cats have highly developed predatory skills because of their ancestry. Biting and scratching are normal play in kittens and cats, however it is not acceptable when directed toward people. Do not play with your cat with your hands or body because this will just encourage your cat to do the same. If you are playing any games which encourage your cat to bite you, STOP! It is difficult to get rid of a specific behaviour if we are encouraging it through our interactions. Only allow interactive play through toys which you provide for your cat. Let him use his predatory instincts on chasing a toy you pull from him, or swatting at a toy you hold, but the instant he grabs your skin, push your hand into his face (be gentle and deliberate, you are not hitting him) and blow into his face at the same time. When he releases your hand, ignore him for about 5 minutes or so (completely). He will realize he was too rough and by ignoring him you will give him time to think about his behaviour. In order for this to work, you must NOT encourage him to bite your skin, all play must be directed at his TOYS. Try to anticipate when your cat may want to play and either start play yourself or provide play objects so you will not be the target. If your kitten or cat has never been around other felines, it is also possible that he has never really learned when he is being too rough. Typically, kittens and cats will learn from one another. With consistency, your cat should learn the play boundaries and know what is and what is not acceptable.
Training is teaching. With cats, training most often refers to educating the cat to understand the difference between acceptable and unacceptable behaviour.
Unlike dogs, cats rarely seem to enjoy learning simply to please their owners; they want to please themselves. Cats are highly intelligent animals, and most relish learning anything that piques their interest.
Physical punishment such as slapping or hitting with hands or objects has no place in training cats or any other animal. Such discipline won't even work on the cat, and shouting isn't particularly effective either. Cats that are punished in this way may learn to hide the inappropriate behaviour while continuing to practice in private. Shy cats may become traumatized introverts, while dominant cats turn into attack animals. Plus, the cat learns to associate hands with pain rather than petting.
Negative reinforcement, which means correcting (not punishing!) inappropriate behaviour, does have its place in cat training, but it must be used judiciously. Negative reinforcement at its best either interrupts or distracts the poor behaviour, or makes the behaviour unpleasant enough that the cat stops on his own. Squirting water at the cat from a distance, clapping your hands, shaking a tin can with coins or tossing a toy toward the cat all work as corrections.
Say no with a firm voice during such corrections, and eventually the cat should learn to stop the behaviour on the word alone. Some cats respond better to the owner hissing 'sssssst' at them as another cat might do to show displeasure. Be aware, though, that dwelling too much on the negative may teach the cat that misbehaviour is a great way to get your attention.
The best way to train a cat is through the use of positive reinforcement. That simply means rewarding the desired behaviour. With dogs, verbal praise is often reward enough; cats tend to need more tangible prizes to motivate their interest, such as a tasty treat or a special toy or game. Make the training session a game to engage your cat's interest and keep it.
Both positive and negative reinforcement work only when you catch your cat in the act. Pets aren't able to relate what happened hours ago with the reward or correction taking place this minute. Cats live in the here and now, and to get your message across, your reaction must be immediate. Don't give treats indiscriminately if that's what you're using for training rewards. Using negative reinforcement to interrupt the behaviour, followed by positive reinforcement, often works wonders.
Consistency is the key. You can't be lenient one day and expect the cat to toe the line the next. That's confusing to the cat, and it's not fair to change the rules.
With time and patience, you can train your cat to know what is allowed and not allowed in your environment. Good Luck!
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Introducing a Scratching Post
Q: How can I teach my cat to use a scratching post?
A: First, keep in mind that clawing/scratching is a marking behaviour, the cat is trying to leave you (or other animals) a message in her own way. Therefore, providing a marking or scratching post is important. The material should be something that shreds easily and the post should be large enough for an adult cat to stretch out when using. Perhaps your cat might prefer using some tree bark, which is a natural scratching source when she is outside. This may appeal more to your cat. Also, the post should be in a prominent area - think billboard here so that the cat will use it. Finally, make it attractive with catnip (which does not work for all cats), toys and praise for using it.
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Obesity
Q: My cat is overweight and I've tried everything to help him lose weight. Do you have any suggestions?
A: You will need to take various steps to help reduce the weight of your overweight cat. The first is to cut back on treats, snacks and feeding food from the table. These are generally high in calories and may contribute to weight gain. The second step can be to feed less of your cat's regular cat food. This usually means measuring the amount of food that's put into the cat's dish to prevent the serving size from increasing over time. Third, you can increase your cat's exercise with additional playtime each day (get the cat to chase a kitty fishing line, table tennis ball, light shined on the floor from a flashlight, etc.). This helps you as well as your cat, and has the additional benefit of increasing the amount of time the both of you spend together. Finally, you could consider switching to a low-calorie food (depending on the age of the cat). These products are designed to allow an owner to serve a nice-size portion while still reducing the calories the animal eats.
It is always a good idea to consult with your local veterinarian before putting your cat on a weight-loss program.
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Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease
Holly Frisby, DVM
Veterinary Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.
Feline lower urinary tract disease (FLUTD) was formerly called "feline urologic syndrome" or FUS. FLUTD affects the cat's urinary bladder and sometimes the urethra (the tube-like structure that leads from the bladder to the outside of the body). The term "FLUTD" is broad and covers a number of conditions of the urinary tract in cats.
Q: What are the symptoms of FLUTD?
A: FLUTD is a serious disease and if left untreated, it can result in death. Signs of FLUTD include:
- Prolonged squatting or straining in or out of the litter box (some owners may confuse this with signs of constipation) and not producing urine or only a small amount
- Frequent urination or straining
- Pain while urinating (meowing or howling)
- Urinating outside of the litter box
- Blood in the urine
- Frequent licking of the genital area
- Vomiting
- Depression
Some cats with FLUTD develop crystals in their urine. In the male cat, these crystals can block his urethra preventing him from urinating even though the bladder still fills. Sometime a plug can form and also block the urethra. You may have heard of a male cat with this condition called a "blocked tom".
Q: What causes FLUTD?
A: Several factors can contribute to this disease including bacterial or viral infections, trauma, crystals in the urine, bladder stones, tumours of the urinary tract, and congenital abnormalities. In many cases the cause is never discovered. Factors that may contribute to development of FLUTD include:
- Not drinking enough water
- A diet high in magnesium or other minerals
- Too much acidity or alkalinity of the urine
- Stress
Q: How is FLUTD diagnosed?
A: A veterinarian will perform a physical exam on the cat. The veterinarian may find the bladder either small and thickened or very large and distended. The veterinarian will press on the bladder (called "expressing" the bladder) to see if the cat is able to urinate or if the urethra is blocked. The veterinarian may also be able to feel bladder stones.
If the cat is able to urinate, urine is collected in a special box that does not contain litter. If the cat is blocked, a urine sample is collected using a procedure called "cystocentesis". In this procedure, a fine needle is inserted into the bladder through the abdomen. This does not hurt the cat; in fact, the cat often feels better because the veterinarian is relieving the urine pressure.
Your veterinarian may perform a "urinalysis" that will indicate if there are crystals, bacteria, blood or white blood cells in the urine; the urine pH and also how concentrated the urine is (called "specific gravity"). The veterinarian may also take radiographs (X-rays) to look for stones, tumours or congenital abnormalities. Certain dyes are sometimes passed into the bladder to aid in seeing abnormalities.
Blood urea nitrogen and creatinine are two waste products that are normally eliminated through the urinary system. If the kidneys are affected because of an obstruction (blockage), these waste products can build up in the blood and affect the health of other organs and cause vomiting and anorexia (loss of appetite). Blood tests are often performed to measure the levels of these waste products, assess damage to other organs, and detect any electrolyte imbalances. The test results may indicate the need for additional therapies such as medications, diet modifications, and the need for increased or different intravenous fluids.
Q: How is FLUTD treated?
A: If there are crystals, the type of crystal is determined and nutritional changes are often made. Special diets are often continued for the life of the cat. For cats that will not eat these special diets, urinary acidifiers are sometimes given if indicated.
Fluids are generally given to the cat intravenously (in the vein) or subcutaneously (under the skin near the scruff of the neck). These fluids treat dehydration and help to flush out the bladder. Cats are encouraged to drink more water.
If a bacterial infection is thought to be the cause, antibiotics are prescribed.
If the cat is "blocked", he is anesthetized and a small catheter is passed first into the urethra to remove the obstruction, then into the bladder to flush it out. The cat is then hospitalized with the urinary catheter in place for at least 24 hours to make sure there is no recurrence of the obstruction. The cat is generally kept on fluids and antibiotics.
If the FLUTD is caused by tumours or congenital abnormalities, surgery may be necessary along with other procedures.
Q: Do all cats recover from FLUTD?
A: If the condition is diagnosed early, most cats can be treated successfully. Remember that this is a very serious disease and your veterinarian's advice must be strictly followed. Cats who are obstructed can become very ill, may develop irreversible kidney damage, and not all survive. It is imperative that if you suspect your cat of having a urinary obstruction, you contact your veterinarian immediately. Several hours can mean the difference between a successful outcome or a long hospitalization and sometimes, death.
Unfortunately, cats that have had a bout of FLUTD are more likely to have second or third occurrences. In these cases, additional tests and radiographs may be necessary to determine the cause of the recurrence. If a male cat has recurrences of the blockage, surgery may be necessary.
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